Fund organizations run many funds. They call themselves fund “families.” Studies show that marketing, not high returns, increases funds under management over the long-term. The fund families send you newsletters and have Web sites. Every article is designed to encourage you to ignore the results you have gotten and buy more product. Your mailbox will also be stuffed with bulletins about new funds, account statements, proxy statements, and tax statements. The more money you have with the family, the higher the level of service and status you can achieve within the family. You can move up from ordinary to preferred to gold to platinum to admiralty. Switching funds within the fund group is convenient and quick. To switch from a rival fund, they will even do all the paperwork for you. But moving out of the family is discouraged. If you are dissatisfied with one of their funds, they hope your sense of loyalty and desire for convenience will cause you to buy another fund within the family. Retaining your mutual funds is their primary goal.

Some funds close to new investors. This gives existing investors the illusion that they own an exclusive product, which discourages them from selling. Some funds also impose penalties for early withdrawals. This keeps your money under management and creates a steady income stream for the und manager.

As with any good dysfunctional family, there are many secrets. You cannot find out what stocks your fund owns more than every six months, and then only 45 days after the six-month period ends. Nor can you get any information explaining why one manager was fired and another hired. Even mutual fund watchdogs such as Lipper and Morningstar cannot obtain this information. It is as if this is not your money but the family’s money.

If you have family abandonment issues, mutual fund investing will be troublesome. Seeking approval and support for your emotional deficiencies will cause you to stay with poor funds when better returns are available elsewhere. Severe depression could follow.

Fund organizations run many funds. They call themselves fund “families.”  Studies show that marketing, not high returns, increases funds under  management over the long-term. The fund families send you newsletters  and have Web sites. Every article is designed to encourage you to ignore  the results you have gotten and buy more product. Your mailbox will also be  stuffed with bulletins about new funds, account statements, proxy statements,  and tax statements. The more money you have with the family, the  higher the level of service and status you can achieve within the family. You  can move up from ordinary to preferred to gold to platinum to admiralty.

Switching funds within the fund group is convenient and quick. To switch  from a rival fund, they will even do all the paperwork for you. But moving  out of the family is discouraged. If you are dissatisfied with one of their  funds, they hope your sense of loyalty and desire for convenience will cause  you to buy another fund within the family. Retaining your mutual funds is  their primary goal.

Some funds close to new investors. This gives existing investors the  illusion that they own an exclusive product, which discourages them from  selling. Some funds also impose penalties for early withdrawals. This keeps  your money under management and creates a steady income stream for the  fund manager.

As with any good dysfunctional family, there are many secrets. You  cannot find out what stocks your fund owns more than every six months,  and then only 45 days after the six-month period ends. Nor can you get any  information explaining why one manager was fired and another hired. Even  mutual fund watchdogs such as Lipper and Morningstar cannot obtain this  information. It is as if this is not your money but the family’s money.

If you have family abandonment issues, mutual fund investing will be  troublesome. Seeking approval and support for your emotional deficiencies  will cause you to stay with poor funds when better returns are available  elsewhere. Severe depression could follow.

You will notice that in this second stage there are no stocks, options, futures, metals, rare coins, or derivatives in the portfolio. And there is a good reason for that. When you have less than $100,000 to invest and less than a long time to get rich, you should focus on only two things:

1. Continuing to increase your income by continuing to perfect a financially valued skill such as selling, marketing, product development, or profit management

2. Investing the surplus in high-return equity ventures If you focus on this for a few years, chances are that you’ll end up with a surfeit of cash—that is, more cash than you need for your side business and real estate ventures. This extra cash should be kept safe. Extra safe. Remember, this is the beginning of your retirement nest egg. So place this surplus cash in bonds, and reinvest the interest in bonds, too. Make it a primary objective to have this safety reserve grow substantially every year. Once your bond savings become significant, you’ll start to appreciate what a valuable, comforting investment bonds can be.

You could, for example, create a side business selling a skill you currently have (accounting, legal, writing, editing, purchasing, etc.) or could develop (graphic design, copywriting, resume writing, etc.). Or you could turn a hobby or passion (stamp collecting, gardening, pets) into a profitable, Internetbased direct-marketing business.

As your side business grows, it will require that you reinvest some of the profits into creating new products, hiring employees, and developing new advertising campaigns. You should allow for growth, but limit it to avoid growing so fast that you end up losing control and getting into trouble.

Equity-building real estate. Buying equity-building real estate means buying rental properties. The trick to making this work for you at this second stage of wealth is to buy conservatively— that is, to make sure that the rent you’ll get will at least meet (but should really exceed) your cost of maintaining the property. I recommend duplexes, triplexes, and quadruplexes to start. They’ll give you the best chance to achieve zero or positive monthly cash flow. How much equity-building real estate should you develop? If you have a net worth of $100,000, I’d recommend a little more than half. Let’s say $60,000.

Fixed-income instruments. The rest of your money should be in Treasuries, municipal bonds, or quality corporate paper. Fixedincome instruments like these don’t provide a high return, but they are safe.

When you get to the next stage—that is, when you have between $25,000 and $100,000 to invest—you can take a multilayered approach to your investing. I like the following simple five-part formula.

1. Cash. The first money you save should be marked for emergencies. This needs to be put someplace that is secure but easy to access, such as a home safe or a safe-deposit box. The amount you should keep for emergencies depends on your personal situation: how much you typically spend, how reliable your income is, and so on. As a rule of thumb, though, I’d recommend about 10 percent of your investable net worth. If you have $100,000, that would be $10,000.

2. Income-generating real estate. I recommend buying and flipping real estate for everyone, even beginners. If you start when you have less than $25,000 to invest and make a few deals, by the time your investable net worth hits $100,000, you should have a pretty active, nicely profitable second stream of income.

3. Side business(es). If you didn’t want to get involved in a side business when you had less than $25,000 to invest, you should consider it at this stage. You don’t have to risk a ton of money. Invest $10,000 conservatively in a business you understand and see where that takes you.

You can invest a small amount of money (and a lot of hard work and well-spent time) in a small business and see it grow into a business that is worth a million in seven years. I’ve done it many times. I’ve coached people who have done it. Stories are published in magazines every month about people who have done it.

But let’s be frank. With only $18,000 to $25,000 to invest, it won’t be easy. That’s why I like to encourage Early to Rise readers who are at this first wealth-building stage to focus most of their time and efforts on building their income. Doubling your income in a year or two is entirely possible if you follow the advice I gave you in previous posts. And if you double your income and don’t double your lifestyle, you’ll have a lot more money left over to ensure the success of your small side business.

Here are five things I recommend if you are in this situation:

1. Find a way to radically increase your salary by making yourself radically more valuable at work.
2. Resist the temptation to spend more money as your income rises.
3. Put some of your savings down on an undervalued, small, single-family house, fix it up fast, and sell it for a profit.
4. Reinvest that original capital plus the profit in another buyand-flip deal. Keep doing this until it becomes a very pleasant habit.
5. Invest another portion of your savings in a part-time, weekend business. Sell a product or service you know and understand.

Make sure you are not a pioneer. Unless there are others actively selling the same thing, you don’t want to be in the market. The idea is to enter an active market with a better/cleverer/cheaper version of what others are selling. Sell only by direct response—print, mail, and Internet. Go carefully and learn from your mistakes.

I’ve mentored several friends and relatives in starting up small businesses. The first years were always a struggle, because they were trying to find ways to efficiently bring in new customers. Once a way was found, things got much easier. Developing a back end (i.e., selling other, usually more-expensive products to existing customers) is relatively easy, as is refining operations.

A typical business start-up of this kind will break even or lose a little money in year one, make a decent salary for the owner in year two, and provide a substantial bonus—in addition to a good, arm’s-length management salary—in year three. After that, it’s usually straight uphill.

If your scope is seven years or less, there is only one answer: Start a business. You can’t start a capital-intensive business with $18,000. You can’t, for example, open a restaurant or create a new line of pharmaceuticals. But you don’t want to be in those businesses anyway. (The risk/reward ratio isn’t working for you.) Much better to start a business selling something you know about—such as gardening or collecting beer steins or taking care of pets. You can start a little business like this for a few thousand dollars if you start small and go slowly—at first.